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Paul Chase
США
Добавлен 12 авг 2006
My catch-all overview channel. You'll find kinetic sculptures and random projects, but my main focus these days is PrintShift - part ejecting 3D printers.
PrintShift3d.com is live!
I have a Patreon to support the PrintShift part ejection project:
www.patreon.com/PrintShift
However, it is completely open source - feel free to build along with us!
github.com/paenian/PrintShift
PrintShift3d.com is live!
I have a Patreon to support the PrintShift part ejection project:
www.patreon.com/PrintShift
However, it is completely open source - feel free to build along with us!
github.com/paenian/PrintShift
cad2print: Handlebar Waterbottle Mount
I've been doing a lot more biking lately, and running and swimming? Yeah. I guess I'm technically a triathlete, but this project is in support of my second triathlon, so I'm not about to go out and get a fancy new bike. I did get nice running shoes and another onesie.
My Schwinn was made in Burlington, Wisconsin in 1978 - several years before I graced this earth with my presence, and while she's not the fastest bike it feels like cheating to mount anything else. Anyways. Trying to get back on this, and all of my equipment's been fighting me - I'll get it sorted, but apologize for the roughness.
I'm a believer in learning by doing - as Ze Frank has said, I don't want to be stuck in a terribl...
My Schwinn was made in Burlington, Wisconsin in 1978 - several years before I graced this earth with my presence, and while she's not the fastest bike it feels like cheating to mount anything else. Anyways. Trying to get back on this, and all of my equipment's been fighting me - I'll get it sorted, but apologize for the roughness.
I'm a believer in learning by doing - as Ze Frank has said, I don't want to be stuck in a terribl...
Просмотров: 51
Видео
Triaxial Numechron Clock Build
Просмотров 5116 месяцев назад
Links: Triaxial Numechron Clock : www.instructables.com/Triaxial-Numechron-Clock/ Alien3D's Maker Box: makerbox.alien3d.us/ screw assortment: www.amazon.com/dp/B08FQWXCKG stepper motor & driver: www.amazon.com/CenryKay-ULN2003-28BYJ-48-Compatible-Breadboard/dp/B086D5SXPV Support the project! www.patreon.com/PrintShift Project GitHub - PrintShift is open source! Build along and make your Mini a ...
Repairing my Player Piano
Просмотров 2647 месяцев назад
Teardown and repair of an old player piano - I just think that they're cool, and now I've inherited my parents' old piano. Needs a tune. Badly. Also had a bear of a time getting decent audio... recording in a more exposed area. Turns out the fix was easy! Now... how to make new scrolls for a player piano? I'd love to make a more portable player, too, but not sure what sensors would be best for ...
Neopixel Clock Build - and upgrades!
Просмотров 1308 месяцев назад
Original project: github.com/bastelgarage/dual-led-ring-watch Hackaday article: hackaday.com/2023/11/06/3d-printed-led-wall-clock-does-lots-with-little/ Project GitHub: github.com/paenian/dual-led-ring-watch Adafruit Neopixel guide: learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/the-magic-of-neopixels This is a cool clock project - or really, trying to turn an existing cool clock project into a...
PrintShift Blob Failure!
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.8 месяцев назад
What do you do when your ejector fails!? Blob Failure, Recovery and prevention - going through some options while I fix my Revo hotend. Busy season is upon us, but let's power through!\ Obico - failure detection for 3D Printers: www.obico.io/ Support the project! www.patreon.com/PrintShift Project GitHub - PrintShift is open source! Build along and make your Mini a proper factory! github.com/pa...
Printshift Bed Guards
Просмотров 9749 месяцев назад
If a Prusa Mini could lick... what would it lick? The tongue is definitely a temporary addition, the clicking and clacking as it moves back and forth is maddening! Support the project! www.patreon.com/PrintShift Project GitHub - PrintShift is open source! Build along and make your Mini a proper factory! github.com/paenian/PrintShift
PrintShift 5.1 - Build Along!
Просмотров 5169 месяцев назад
All the STL files used today are in here: github.com/paenian/PrintShift/tree/main/prusa mini/printshift 5.0 ejector Other parts, I'll update the BOM on the 5.0 github. Thanks! Paul Support the project! www.patreon.com/PrintShift Project GitHub - PrintShift is open source! Build along and make your Mini a proper factory! github.com/paenian/PrintShift
PrintShift 5.1 Ejecting at ERRF
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.10 месяцев назад
No updates to the printer yet... but thanks to the awesome ERRFlings from Nova Labs I had some time at the booth to do a better video on the PrintShift ejecting parts. In short, raising the Z axis pulls the string which actuates the rack by rotating it into the pinion. At that point, the printer's Y axis is shuffled backwards and forwards 90mm at a time to roll the part off the bed. The pinion ...
PrintShift 5.1 - Rack and Pinion ejector
Просмотров 66610 месяцев назад
I feel like I should be more excited about this... because it's awesome and came together really quickly. Still in testing stages - literally completed one successful run (on video!) and got packed up to go to ERRF. The printer does like to eject parts into itself, so I'll be designing a shield for it... and the loose string is just begging to get caught on something so I'd like a snazzier solu...
PrintShift 5.0 - coming at you
Просмотров 93810 месяцев назад
Hello there! I've been rebuilding one of my older PrintShift minis, Cannon Fodder is this guy's name, with the intent of upgrading it to a radically simplified part ejector. This is a quick video of the first working unit - not a complete build video, that'll come in a bit when I've had time to make a few refinements. LINKS: Autodrop3d: www.autodrop3d.com/ ERRF 2023 - the East Coast RepRap Fest...
Quick Print: Yeti Lid Toggle... Thingamajorb
Просмотров 15010 месяцев назад
Demonstrating the utility of the 3d printer! The toggle closure of my Yeti mug just flipped off like a pancake without a plate - so this is a quick print video representing the 38 minutes it took me to design and print a functional replacement. Support the project! www.patreon.com/PrintShift Check out our website! printshift3d.com Project GitHub - PrintShift is open source! Build along and make...
Prusa XL build!
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Building the Prusa XL! The clock started at 2... I started it at 12 originally, but that included making and printing the mount for the clock on my beta Prusa XL. This machine is known as Beeblebox, a name it doesn't deserve, but it descends from Zaphod Beeblebrox being voted the Worst Dressed Sentient Being 7 times. I'll print Beeblebox some "clothes" as we progress - for now, capturing the bu...
Lake Anne Carboard Boat Regatta 2023
Просмотров 259Год назад
The Lake Anne Cardboard Boat regatta is coming up on August 19th, 2023 - an event that my local makerspace, Nova Labs, has supported for years and one which I’ve always entered with my own take on what exactly a boat is. I've been doing a series of boats based on the platonic solids - and this is the last one. This video strolls through the history of my "boats" - the Tetraheboat, the Wisdom Cu...
Corsi-Rosenthal filter box - cr 30 update! Stronger and easier to maintain.
Просмотров 385Год назад
This is to make a more robust Corsi-Rosenthal filter-box, using the CR30 printmill to make 522mm long mounts for the filters. It can be easily printed on a smaller printer by cutting the beams in half, or even thirds - threading them onto the 2020 rod makes this build fully modular. I wanted to use my modified CR30 for something useful - and this was the first project that came up. My hometown'...
CR30 PrintMill - NG Revo 22.5 Degree Upgrade
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.Год назад
This video details the final mount of the MicroSwiss Revo NG extruder on a Creality CR30 3D PrintMill. I've got the mount angled at 22.5 degrees, splitting the difference between the 45 degree angle of the printing plane and the flat belt bed. This mount has clearance everywhere, and is even shorter than the original CR-30 hotend - so you actually gain some print height, taking the printable ar...
CR30 Micro Swiss NG Revo Upgrade First Print #short
Просмотров 510Год назад
CR30 Micro Swiss NG Revo Upgrade First Print #short
CR 30 upgrade - 22.5 degree Micro Swiss NG Revo
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.Год назад
CR 30 upgrade - 22.5 degree Micro Swiss NG Revo
CR-30 First Look! Or, Examining a New Used Printer
Просмотров 662Год назад
CR-30 First Look! Or, Examining a New Used Printer
Kinetic Knitting 2 - Starting & Problem Solving
Просмотров 160Год назад
Kinetic Knitting 2 - Starting & Problem Solving
Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race - 2023
Просмотров 974Год назад
Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race - 2023
Kinetic Knitting part 1: Can you knit a clock?!
Просмотров 244Год назад
Kinetic Knitting part 1: Can you knit a clock?!
Turning 3D Prints into Metal - The new old way
Просмотров 364Год назад
Turning 3D Prints into Metal - The new old way
Bambu X1-Carbon 3 months in: Upgrades for Fire and Forget 3D Printing
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
Bambu X1-Carbon 3 months in: Upgrades for Fire and Forget 3D Printing
3D Printing Tank Treads 2: the Treadening
Просмотров 284Год назад
3D Printing Tank Treads 2: the Treadening
Clean Air for 3D Printing: How to Build and Install a Corsi-Rosenthal Box
Просмотров 399Год назад
Clean Air for 3D Printing: How to Build and Install a Corsi-Rosenthal Box
Tank Treads for 3D Printer Part Ejection: Quick Build
Просмотров 551Год назад
Tank Treads for 3D Printer Part Ejection: Quick Build
Bambu Carbon X1 Combo Vs. Prusa Mk3S+
Просмотров 42 тыс.Год назад
Bambu Carbon X1 Combo Vs. Prusa Mk3S
I found a Prusa Mendel by the side of the road today. It was covered in dust and stripped of its controller, with a failed print still stuck to the bed. I'm thinking about fixing it, since the cost of a RAMPS setup is pretty trivial. If nothing else, it's an excuse to get back into electronics as a hobby.
whats the range?
Thank you very much man
The irony is the video dragged quite that much slower than any pneumatic bike could ever…
Thank you!
I got to know! Did you ever make this work well?
Can I buy some of those?
Hi Paul, did you ever change the cooling duct to suite the longer nozzle for belt printers??
What materials did you use and where can I buy them
There is no need to modify the motor at all! Just ignore the middle red wire and use a bipolar controller and the two coil ends and it works exactly the same!! Well exactly the same as the described modification, but it is not the same, because now you are using double the length of wire, and so double the resistance and half the current. You can make up for it by doubling the voltage to 12v. If you are going to modify it, what you really want to do is double up the wires so you have half the windings like before, but twice the copper and thus have the same resistance and hence current. You can do that by taking the two coil wires in the middle terminal (the mid point of the coil) and connect one to the end, and the other to the start. If you don't do that, cut the middle trace to one coil and add another "red" wire into the "middle" of the other coil, and now you can use only half the windings and run it bipolar and have the same performance as unipolar. I have also noticed the coils only fill up half the motor, so you could just rip out the coils and put in a single winding of a thicker wire. I'm converting one to a servo and need the shorter motor this has. The "short" servos are like $50 to buy.
Look at the circuit diagram - unmodified, every coil is connected to the ground in the middle - you can drive it from the ends to the ground, but without cutting that connection you'll be running at 1/4 power. You also can't do microstepping cuz the current would be flowing from one coil through the ground leg to the other coil
Cool video but really as a beginner I have no clue what you are talking about. Please explain what exactly happens now with this motor. How is better and for what purpose? And if I cannot use my controller anymore then how can I control it now? I'm looking for my motor to be able to go forward and backward, and I am making that project now. Can this video help me? Thanks.
Making it bidirectional really increases the torque and lets you control it smoothly with microstepping. It can go forwards and backwards before being modified, though.
Ok so I got a A4988 and am willing to try. Am just a bit confused of wiring and code..
What reference voltage did you set your A4988 drivers to limit the current for driving the bi-polar version please?
Why 22.5*? U like it more?
The nozzle is 22.5 degrees from the bed AND 22.5 degrees from the print plane - splitting the difference. Helps with bed adhesion and print quality, so, yes. I like it more.
Does it run??? Why now show it running?
Yep, it does run! Four of them are powering this printer: ruclips.net/video/3TYawz8agKE/видео.html
Nice build!
Hi Paul I noticed the 6 is upsidedown not on the pink one but the other one with orange numbers.
I did notice that while editing 😅
Hi, should we swap the cables addtionally? yellow and pink?
i've hard orbiter 2.0 for a while now, only been printing PLA, ASA and ABS, recently, I tried TPU on this and it's clogging like crazy. Not at the nozzle but at the extruder side. never had this problem with sprite.
an upgrade is possible with activated carbon filter for volatile chemicals adsorption, one sheet is ok right under the fan
I did this but the engine is running hot, how to fix it?
in your start gcode, add: M907 E400 That will set the extruder motor current - if it's still hot, you can go to M907 E350, and if the motor skips you can increase it instead.
I can probable get a list from vick oliver
Ah, retro 3d printing content, my favourite! Thanks for the history refresher. BTW, it seems that the Mendel-90 did solve almost all the issues with the original i3 design you have there. In my opinion the whole "threaded-rod-aesthetics" was a dead end.
I agree... and for the majority of my 3D Printing, I replaced the threaded rods with a laser-cut frame and had a very fine printer. I never dismantled the first one, though, since it still printed pretty well.
Fantastic project *and* video, Paul! I hope to see a version of your clock on the wall next time I visit NovaLabs! Also that Terracotta PETG is indeed nice. I might have to grab some for myself!
🎉
0:45 - a Darlington transistor is just a high power transistor. ???
They're wired as one, but on the silicon it's two transistors with their collectors chained together, for higher current gain. You can build your own with any two npn transistors, but they're useful enough that the ICs are cheap and readily available
It just sounded like you were saying Darlington pairs are high power or control high power. Certainly there are many lower current Darlington pairs. Their configuration is for high current gain, that is what Mr. Darlington achieved.@@PaulChase
You paid over a grand for the printer but you hack up a $15 PEI plate with a pair of garbage shears to "improve" it?
😶🌫
What driver do you recommend for these bipolar motors?
Any bipolar driver that can handle the current these motors take (which is not a lot) should be fine. A4988 are very popular for this purpose.
I've run these even with the fancier Trinamic drivers - 2209 and 2130 - but with the built-in gear reduction on the motor there's really no need for higher microstepping, but they can still do endstopless homing, which is nice.
@@PaulChase : Hi Paul, I enjoyed your video, thanks... great little motors for learning with. By 'endstopless homing', do you mean driving the mechanism against the end of it's travel to identify a known position?
I have quite a bit more original Prusa Mendel. No screen, no SD Card, hand soldered RAMPS, Wade's extruder. Tho it had some replacement printed parts, some of which design changed between and now are not aligned properly, so finding the original STLs would be needed, i think even back then it was a bit messy and accidentally used i guess v2 parts for Z gantry or something like that? Version control didn't seem to be much of a thing back then. Haven't even powered it on in 5+ years, but i keep it around still.
I think mine has a birthdate of June 18 2008 - but it's been updated many times since then, a true Ship of Theseus. Keep the RepRap flowing! I try to bring it to modern festivals just to show how far we've come.
@@PaulChase It can hardly have started out as Prusa then. The earliest Prusa seems to be from from around 2010. Love the comparison though. I have a Reprap mendel from 2011. It has been upgraden with a RAMPS board with lcd and SD card instead the old gen6 board. Also the nozzle have been upgraded. First it had the gen6 ptfe nozzle, then upgraded to a j-head and then to a e3d v6 nozzle. I still use it, but I have often though of getting a Prusa. As you said reliablity is a big issue on these older printers.
Hello! How to set 22.5 degrees in the slicing program? Which slicer do you use for the cr-30?
Mostly Ideamaker - but don't change the angle in the slicer, it's still printing at a 45 degree plane. This just changes the angle of the extruder to be more bed-adhesion-friendly.
@@PaulChase Ok, I understand and thanks for the info :)
I would also like to know how you solved the wiring of the extruder motor? It works backwards with whatever cable is added. Thanks.
@@atoshun2624 Mine was wired correctly from bondtech - but with any stepper motor, rotating the connector around 180 (plugging it in backwards) will reverse the motor
Thanks, I managed to do this too :D@@PaulChase
Surely the limiting factor is the amount of sunlight in the day rather than battery capacity? In winter you'll be at deficit each day so swapping for a bigger battery won't make much difference
Sounds like math... But you can approach it from both directions. I never calculated solar input, just that the lights were dead in the early morning when I went to work - so I calculated how much battery I needed for the LEDs to run all night
@@PaulChase but did the lights stay on all night every night throughout the winter too?
Thank for giving this problem. By the way, I want to know steps/re (out shaft of motor) in this case (unpio is 64*64 step/re) give me this number. Tks.
The manufacturer says 2048 full steps per revolution, which is full-steps assuming it's got an integrated 1:64 gearbox. The motor comes in different variants with different gearboxes internally, though, so best to check. Also, your steps per mm will be higher if you use a modern stepper driver that implements microstepping
@@PaulChase Tks! Yesterday I test on arduino uno and It is 2048 step/revolution. It's right as you said. Tks .
Parametters of configuration need caculation and experience. Give me these para...
do you need to double the voltage to use it like this?
Nope - it will draw more amps per turn, but it's such a small motor that nearly any stepper driver can handle it.
@@PaulChase V = I * R. If you keep V the same, and double R (because you now have two coils in series) the current halves, not doubles. Or I'm not really understanding it.
Awesome will instal soon for sure
With the time lapse at the end it reminded me of my dog panting after a good run, then it began ejecting a print and it suddenly looked a lot more like retching. Truly cursed and I look forward to seeing even more.
You can install a compressed air nozzle on the side, and use an electromagnetic valve to control the switch of the compressed air. When the printing is completed and the PEI film rotates, it can blow forward with compressed air, so that the parts detached from the PEI will fall forward under the table instead of dropping into the gaps under the machine.
Isn’t it loud in operation?
Oh yeah. It's super irritating, and I'll move to the shield once I'm tired of annoying myself
Also add googly eyes
Try printing a living hinge tongue. Designed my own watchband using that method at 1mm thick and been wearing it comfortably since.
That might be quiet enough to not drive me insane... I thought about TPU but was worried that it'd be too flexible
Ready for some ice cream.
very cool, my senior project is a hydraulic bike and we have some how implement a pneumatic system
How hard would it be to change the code of a program to make it useable for bipolar?
You need to change hardware to go bipolar. Normally these motors are controlled by turning on 4 transistors in series, one per coil, circuit is transistor->coil->ground. Bipolar, the coils run both ways - so you need an h-bridge per coil (two per motor) which is basically 8 transistors. Generally you use purpose built stepper drivers, which do fancier switching and more efficiency
Nice! Glad the key retractor idea worked out for you. It does look like the ptfe tube guide needs to extend out a little bit since the cable is getting caught on the bed and making the gray gear shift during extraction. Maybe a guided 90 bend so the ptfe tube is a little more rigid.
Thanks for the tips!
Keep it up. Need to add an apron to the front of the printer.
hahah this dude is a fool, coping hard 🤣🤣🤣
Don't be so hard on yourself :-)
Besuty
Get video !! I have been printing for just over 10 years ... I should totally do a video with my older printers and do a little time line. I love your autographed power supplies !! I would love to have that in my collection.
That is awesome! I take the Ancient One to RepRap festivals and try to park it as close to the Vorons as possible... Really shows how far DIY has come
I love the printshift! has tough competition with the pancake belt now in my heart!
I was going to post a disassembly of the pancake bot but the hotel staff kept interrupting
Im planing on building either version 4 or version 5 when it comes out. I am having trouble finding the .2 mm kapton film for the build. Your link in github takes me to a 0.1 mm Kapton film, the next options would be a 0.18 or 0.225 mm.
I would go with the .18 - flexibility over durability. For larger rollers thicker is better but the PrintShift is trying to be very compact
Very clever. What were your concerns about the string, specifically? You could route it through a Teflon Bowden tube if you wanted to protect it from fraying, but that would add a bit of friction against the inside of the tube. Otherwise, you could route it around small pulleys. They could be as small as a 608 skate bearing.
Not the string so much as that it's just dangling could easily catch on something. Routing it is a little challenging cuz it's only tensioned for about 20mm of Z travel, and needs to coil up or something out of the way for the rest of printing. Pre-tensioning it with a key leash, adding some pulleys and guides would sort it out
Hers an idea , not sure how to implement it. Two way linear motion into one way rotation. ruclips.net/user/shortsSPQk_ymBOTs?si=khy73PKFG-C4O4mS