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I found a Prusa Mendel by the side of the road today. It was covered in dust and stripped of its controller, with a failed print still stuck to the bed. I'm thinking about fixing it, since the cost of a RAMPS setup is pretty trivial. If nothing else, it's an excuse to get back into electronics as a hobby.

whats the range?

Thank you very much man

The irony is the video dragged quite that much slower than any pneumatic bike could ever…

Thank you!

I got to know! Did you ever make this work well?

Can I buy some of those?

Hi Paul, did you ever change the cooling duct to suite the longer nozzle for belt printers??

What materials did you use and where can I buy them

There is no need to modify the motor at all! Just ignore the middle red wire and use a bipolar controller and the two coil ends and it works exactly the same!! Well exactly the same as the described modification, but it is not the same, because now you are using double the length of wire, and so double the resistance and half the current. You can make up for it by doubling the voltage to 12v. If you are going to modify it, what you really want to do is double up the wires so you have half the windings like before, but twice the copper and thus have the same resistance and hence current. You can do that by taking the two coil wires in the middle terminal (the mid point of the coil) and connect one to the end, and the other to the start. If you don't do that, cut the middle trace to one coil and add another "red" wire into the "middle" of the other coil, and now you can use only half the windings and run it bipolar and have the same performance as unipolar. I have also noticed the coils only fill up half the motor, so you could just rip out the coils and put in a single winding of a thicker wire. I'm converting one to a servo and need the shorter motor this has. The "short" servos are like $50 to buy.

Cool video but really as a beginner I have no clue what you are talking about. Please explain what exactly happens now with this motor. How is better and for what purpose? And if I cannot use my controller anymore then how can I control it now? I'm looking for my motor to be able to go forward and backward, and I am making that project now. Can this video help me? Thanks.

What reference voltage did you set your A4988 drivers to limit the current for driving the bi-polar version please?

Why 22.5*? U like it more?

Does it run??? Why now show it running?

Nice build!

Hi Paul I noticed the 6 is upsidedown not on the pink one but the other one with orange numbers.

Hi, should we swap the cables addtionally? yellow and pink?

i've hard orbiter 2.0 for a while now, only been printing PLA, ASA and ABS, recently, I tried TPU on this and it's clogging like crazy. Not at the nozzle but at the extruder side. never had this problem with sprite.

an upgrade is possible with activated carbon filter for volatile chemicals adsorption, one sheet is ok right under the fan

I did this but the engine is running hot, how to fix it?

I can probable get a list from vick oliver

Ah, retro 3d printing content, my favourite! Thanks for the history refresher. BTW, it seems that the Mendel-90 did solve almost all the issues with the original i3 design you have there. In my opinion the whole "threaded-rod-aesthetics" was a dead end.

Fantastic project *and* video, Paul! I hope to see a version of your clock on the wall next time I visit NovaLabs! Also that Terracotta PETG is indeed nice. I might have to grab some for myself!

🎉

0:45 - a Darlington transistor is just a high power transistor. ???

You paid over a grand for the printer but you hack up a $15 PEI plate with a pair of garbage shears to "improve" it?

What driver do you recommend for these bipolar motors?

I have quite a bit more original Prusa Mendel. No screen, no SD Card, hand soldered RAMPS, Wade's extruder. Tho it had some replacement printed parts, some of which design changed between and now are not aligned properly, so finding the original STLs would be needed, i think even back then it was a bit messy and accidentally used i guess v2 parts for Z gantry or something like that? Version control didn't seem to be much of a thing back then. Haven't even powered it on in 5+ years, but i keep it around still.

Hello! How to set 22.5 degrees in the slicing program? Which slicer do you use for the cr-30?

Surely the limiting factor is the amount of sunlight in the day rather than battery capacity? In winter you'll be at deficit each day so swapping for a bigger battery won't make much difference

Thank for giving this problem. By the way, I want to know steps/re (out shaft of motor) in this case (unpio is 64*64 step/re) give me this number. Tks.

do you need to double the voltage to use it like this?

Awesome will instal soon for sure

With the time lapse at the end it reminded me of my dog panting after a good run, then it began ejecting a print and it suddenly looked a lot more like retching. Truly cursed and I look forward to seeing even more.

You can install a compressed air nozzle on the side, and use an electromagnetic valve to control the switch of the compressed air. When the printing is completed and the PEI film rotates, it can blow forward with compressed air, so that the parts detached from the PEI will fall forward under the table instead of dropping into the gaps under the machine.

Isn’t it loud in operation?

Also add googly eyes

Try printing a living hinge tongue. Designed my own watchband using that method at 1mm thick and been wearing it comfortably since.

Ready for some ice cream.

very cool, my senior project is a hydraulic bike and we have some how implement a pneumatic system

How hard would it be to change the code of a program to make it useable for bipolar?

Nice! Glad the key retractor idea worked out for you. It does look like the ptfe tube guide needs to extend out a little bit since the cable is getting caught on the bed and making the gray gear shift during extraction. Maybe a guided 90 bend so the ptfe tube is a little more rigid.

Keep it up. Need to add an apron to the front of the printer.

hahah this dude is a fool, coping hard 🤣🤣🤣

Besuty

Get video !! I have been printing for just over 10 years ... I should totally do a video with my older printers and do a little time line. I love your autographed power supplies !! I would love to have that in my collection.

I love the printshift! has tough competition with the pancake belt now in my heart!

Im planing on building either version 4 or version 5 when it comes out. I am having trouble finding the .2 mm kapton film for the build. Your link in github takes me to a 0.1 mm Kapton film, the next options would be a 0.18 or 0.225 mm.

Very clever. What were your concerns about the string, specifically? You could route it through a Teflon Bowden tube if you wanted to protect it from fraying, but that would add a bit of friction against the inside of the tube. Otherwise, you could route it around small pulleys. They could be as small as a 608 skate bearing.

Hers an idea , not sure how to implement it. Two way linear motion into one way rotation. ruclips.net/user/shortsSPQk_ymBOTs?si=khy73PKFG-C4O4mS